July 11, 2020 at 2:23 pm #226452twells5Participant
Workkng on a 2011 Subur Outback. Problem is it dies when idling after warm up. No codes thrown and the only anomally I see with my scantool is the egr step never increases from zero (Electronic egr valve, not vacuum…did I spell that right, Matt…Lol)… Even with my bidrectional scantool I cannot increase/decrease the egr steps…other scantool tests for the vehicle do work so I don’t think its a comm issue with this type of vehicle or anything…seems legit.
Problem is, to do any further testing on the egr valve I need to remove it…and according to the fsm…and my attempts…the intake manifold has to be removed in order to get at the two bolts holding on the egr valve! My gawd…what genius came up with that design? I cant even get at the connector pins on the egr valve while it is on the vehicle…So my question is… Is there a trick I’m not aware of to get at those bolts? I tested the MAF, MAP, iac, throttle control fine and they all seem good….and as I said, no codes of any kind thrown…which is pretty bizaar given the symptoms…! Help!July 23, 2020 at 3:29 pm #2323301928nashParticipant
Have another look at the Idle Air Controll, might help.July 27, 2020 at 3:24 am #233182twells5Participant
Many thanks for the reply…That was my first thought too….but unfortunately, this suburu is a drive by wire car so the idle air control is built into the electronic throttlebody…and get this…previous owners must have done something with the throttlebody and broke or cracked the connector on the wire harness side…theres some kind of epoxy goop gluing it together… That and having no codes made me move that way down the list of things to check…only gawd knows what is under that mess!…cant even get at the pins….
Anyway…while doing some scanning I noticed the battery voltage was lower than I would expect. Doing some battery/alternator testing convinced me to pull off the alternator and bring it in for a formal check…and it was bad…replacing it has solved the problem.
I’ve never seen an alternator go like that before…no battery light or any codes, car never died or refused to start…just wouldn’t idle was the only symptom. And I drove it all over the place on test drives and it ran fine…I think maybe the alternator had just enough life left in it to hold the charge with gas applied and rpm up, but when just idling dropped low enough to kill the engine??? Not really sure about that because then it would just start right back up again and run fine as long as gas was applied. Then another thought is that at idle the charge would drop low enought that who knows what was going on with a car dependant on a bunch of power hungry sensors….maybe one got starved…but then again…no codes?
But anyway, running fine now and has a nice clean throttle body and maf sensor…and I hope I never have to do anything with the egr valve or throttle body on that car!
Thanks again for the reply.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.