Welcome to Schrodingers Box
by Schrodinger's Box | Mar 7, 2018 | Introduction | 7 comments
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This Website is the ultimate resource for Advanced DIY Auto Repair with the specific purpose of preventing “parts changing”- that is- changing parts on a guess because of a lack of understanding on how to test if a part is actually faulty. This is accomplished by using a methodical, scientific approach to accurately confirm a diagnosis before attempting a repair. Subscribe here and you’ll stop firing the “parts cannon” by changing O2 sensors, plugs, and wires to try and fix your check engine light and instead use professional-level advanced Auto diagnostics and repair with tools and equipment available to any home mechanic.
Please confirm receipt of this inquiry! Although I would love to give you a big hug and thank you in person for sharing your knowledge, my efforts to obtain contact information have so far…been unsuccessful. I was looking forward to being able to tell the next guy that tried to sell me ANOTHER O2sensor…to take it up with Matt…or check out his videos, then give me a call. But, if I can’t figure out how to contact you or at least get confirmation that you are really out there…I can’t expect them to be able to either. Please be approachable and let me know the best and or fastest way to reach you.
HI matt; I have a 1990 chevy 2500 pick up 350 engine automattic transmission . lots of miles, but was a perfect truck for 3 years. suddenly it quit running. towed it to my garage
and have dumped the parts store on it. I rebuilt the tbi fuel system! Didn’t start! Put new distributer and coil. No Spark ! The wire (Hot) coming from the switch probes 6-7 volts to the new coil. Could you direct me as where to look next to get it started. Instrument lights ok, head lights ok. Battery 12.6 volts. I don’t now how to check the fuel/oil sensing switch. After 3 months I am ready to give Up! Just got enrolled in yur community last night and have not gone thru all your videos yet. Please direct me. Jim Shandy
Matt,
I watch your channel religiously I believe you give the most solid advice in a understandable manner for us diy’ers. With that I am lost with my symptoms and have scoured the internet looking for something similar with no avail. 2007 Durango 4.7 /. 195,000 miles. Upon start fuel trim on bank one goes immediately-30 then gradually goes down to 0 then climbs to a +30 only to go back down to + or – 5 to 7 what I would think is normal. Sometimes this fluctuation causes a random misfire code and sometimes also a failure to close loop. Oh LTFT stays at 0. or close to. When I snap throttle STFT does go down to more of a zero area, so I’m thinking vacuum leak. I have hooked smoke through EVAP system and through intake with no sign of leakage except for fuel cap which I replaced. Car runs fine 30 to 45 seconds after it goes through this process at start, but shakes like hell when going through it. Now here’s where I’m could be a “idiot” lol Ive been chasing this for a year now and have replaced a lot of parts as somewhat of yes I’ll say it some idiot guess work, here’s what’s new/ cam and crank sensors, tps, up and down O2 sensors both banks, coolant temps sensor, map, and IAC and I’m embarrassed to say even the PCM, 4 injectors on bank one” at least they were from the wrecking yard” and exhaust manifold gaskets due to cracked bolts and a known exhaust leak at the time as well. Oh and egr valve. Yeah I know, like I said I’m embarrassed and will say a lot of this I did before watching your channel and realizing there is a systematic what to check certain things. Sorry this is so long I’m just really at a loss here.
Dear Matt,
You almost certainly won’t remember my writing to you a few years back.
I had just discovered a great solace from auto repair. This discovery manifested as a result of my watching your videos, and it arrived at a time when I needed it the most.
I seem to recall that my first introduction to Schrodinger’s Box was a troll-bashing episode. It was the comedy that hooked me, but the subsequent tutorial videos that kept me coming back for more. I’ll never forget the two-part series on fuel trims; this series really opened my eyes to just how much knowledge could be obtained through your tuition. What’s more – your videos provided a springboard for a plethera of further auto repair jobs. Most of them were completely unnecessary, but they gave me confidence to pursue a genuine interest.
Having recently found myself starting over once again – my long-term relationship having broken down, I find myself, once again, watching Schrodinger’s Box. Whilst there are more than a few guys who provide auto diagnostic videos (many of whom I watch regularly), I find I always gravitate toward yours. It’s almost like returning to an old friend.
Here in England, there aren’t so many guys who run their auto channels to the same magnitude as those from the U.S. However, I do know that Schrodinger’s Box does have a big following over here. ChrisFix tends to get the lion’s share of the younger ‘wannabe’ technicians, but those who value experience over youth subscribe to your good self.
I guess I just wanted to let you know how much your channel has meant to me over the years. And not just to me, but also to countless others who aspire to the same values. Sometimes, it’s not simply the technical knowledge that folk are searching for; they’re actually looking for something more profound.
Thank you for saving me the first time around. And thank you even more for helping me through this latest trial. What with all the craziness in the world at the moment, it’s such a comfort to know that there are still people like yourself trying to make it all a little easier.
Keep doing what you do, Matt… and keep bashing those asshats.
Andy
London, UK
Hello good sir,
I really enjoy your tutorials.
I have a 1996 bmw e36 m car with m44 motor. It came from Japan. I have cleaned my icv, pcv, disa, and the other valves and senders as well. But there is supposed to be a iac valve under the intake manifold. There is not. That is an aluminum cylindrical valve with 2 hose ports at the top and a 3 pin connector at the bottom. That 3/4 inch hose coming out of the boot goes straight through and the iac is not there. What does that iac do. Could the fact it is missing cause a very slight rough idle?
The compression is 210 psi and all cylinders hold that perfectly. Has only 72000 km … a gem.
But I get only 400 km on a whole tank. Can’t figure out where the gas is going, but am using regular gas on a baby foot. Maybe that is why.
Matt. I love your channel. I have a pwm modulated fan inquiry for a jeep jk. I need some way to be able to send a pic of the programming parameters i
I discovered so u can unravel the mystery of its operation. Please advise and thanks. Im a paid subscriber btw. Mike painter.
Hi Matt I’m the one with the 95 buick crank no start that my local garage told me they couldn’t fix it and asked me to tow it out of there would you be willing to walk me through this step by step? And report back my resultsvwith pictures. I’m willing to pay for your effort no problem….I have the authentic gm shop manuals, only own a test light, multi meter…would like to get some t-pins and little wire clamps let me know thanks Mark