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While I understand the premise of the group, sometimes we do not have the complete set of diagnostic tools or the time or the space to take the time, etc… I did a fair bit of diagnostic work and, in the end, had to trust a little common sense. A 30 dollar o2 sensor wasn’t going to break me and it seemed pretty logical based on everything else I had tested or diagnosed positively. I replaced the o2 sensor and it’s running well, knock on wood. I’ll report back if anything changes. Side note, the new o2 seems to be reading much better, I think it was slow and likely off too.
Disconnected upstream o2 sensor and runs great. Doesn’t even seem too rich, going to install new one today. So, either o2 sensor was bad or was good but something else was so bad the o2 couldn’t compensate for it with adjustments like a massive vacuum leak. Whatever was wrong, if anything, is still there, so, simply running a little rich is working, so must not be too bad (I.E. Spark, injection, air, etc…) I’m leaning towards the o2 was bad… Thoughts? Bets?
Hi, pressure was steady around 50 psi, held good for a check valve test. Replaced IAC, cleaned throttle body, replaced crankshaft position sensor today, seemed to run good for a few minutes after that but then went right back to shuddering when it flips from open to closed loop and, for the first time ev, threw a code, P0132 o2 sensor high voltage. The fact that it started to run like crap as soon as it reached temp and started to read the sensors seemed like a tell. I’ve got two NTK on order for Friday.
P.S. The crankshaft position sensor is easy to remove, a pain in the you know what to get the bolt started…
