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OK, I got the car back from the dealer. They replaced B1S1. This was the odd one that reading way different then the other three. I did not have the opportunity to speak with the tech. I do not know if he checked anything else or just guessed. The CEL is off. I hook up the Evolve for the ride home this evening. Now goes into closed loop. Fuel trims and O2 sensors are reading normally.This also took care if the misfire after a hot start.
The only thing left is the intermittent hesitation when accelerating slowly from a stop. Narrowed this down to NOT a engine problem. Seems like the traction control/ABS has a mind of its own. I had a yellow ABS light and a red brake warning light, a traction control fail light and a couple of warning in the DIC. Dealer had stated when they see this the problem is the ABS controller. They paid for a used controller the I installed. Seemed to work for about a week. Then started getting the “traction active” in the DIC. No warning lights.
So, now I get to learn how to use a new scanner to diagnose a vehicle system that did not exist when I was in dealerships and now nothing about. The fun never ends.
Thanks to everyone for the help with the drive-ability problem.
jkreutzer, thank you very much. I guess my diagnostic skills have deteriorated to the point that simple things just do not come to mind. Never occurred to me to swap the O2 sensors and see if the problem moved.
I added a link to a couple of screen shots of the data stream I recorded. Looking at the parameters, this thing should be in closed loop.
“https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fECFrjMd3i9qziLE4nIPrJaKfz4QxwX3”
In case the like does not work, the coolant temp sensor is showing 192deg. I was doing 58mph with engine speed of 1678rpm. When I replay the recording the O2 sensors do fluctuate.
The car is back at the dealer for some other repairs they promised to do. They are “supposed” to take care of the CEL as well. We will see. I will post the fix, when it happens.
I agree about the reason for this site. It would be a lot easier to throw $1500 in sensors,injectors, converters and gaskets. But, I do not like to work that way. Especially when a little extra work leads to a $50 part.
Thanks again for your guidance. You sound like a good teacher.
We recently purchased an OTC Evolve. Still learning it. Has built in wiring diagrams, specs, etc. We also have the trial of identifix.
Thanks for the help. I wish my scan tool would let me share the recordings. It would be a lot easier. Plus, it has bee 30 years since I had any training or real challenges in diagnostics.
I agree, the driveability issues can be tackled after the fuel trims/O2 sensors/open loop issue.
I will not be able to get back into working on this until the weekend, but I can add/update some things now. I recorded the data stream as I was driving home one day. All the fuel trims stayed at “0”. B1S1 was fluctuating, around 350mv average. B1S2, B2S1 and B2S2 were also fluctuating, averaging around 35mv. The readings for the heater circuits were as follows; Both banks, S1 showing .76A. B1S2 was .52A. B2S2 was .46A. I am guessing the O2 fuses are good, otherwise I should see 0A on the heater circuits.
I have readings for MAF, MAP, RPM, speed, etc. One thing I did notice in a snapshot of the readings was the accelerator pedal position indicated angle, 0% and the throttle position indicated angle, 28%. Again, this was a snapshot. Might mean nothing, might mean a lot, I just do not know.
Thanks again for the help. This is definitely an OJT/learn as I go experience for me.
With out a code or better readings from a scanner the best I can do is a SWAG, (Scientific Wild A** Guess). I think I would look at the crank sensor. I had one go bad on a Kia. Sometimes it would start, sometimes not. That being said, I would try to locate a scanner that could read your codes and sensors. Sorry I can not be of more help.
