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Your compression looks healthy at 165psi. I’m not sure I’ve understood what you mean when you say it’s dropped to 0psi, is this measured with a sensor? Usually a mechanical guage is used to check compression. If the cylinder that’s misfiring has had a new injector and coil it’s safe to assume it isn’t related to those. Could it be there’s a fault in thr wiring for the coil on cyl no 7? It would probably be a good idea to do a compression test again dry and wet. (Wet is with some oil in the cylinder). If the compression increases then you don’t have an issue with your valves. Another thing is have you checked the condition of the spark plug or plugs? At 125k theyre probably due a replacement.
Have you tried the key in the on position just before start, for about 10 seconds? It gives the pump a chance to prime. Also I agree on disconnecting the o2 to see if the engine starts easier. It could be an o2 sensor stuck rich, meaning the engine’s actually running lean. If you’ve noticed stripped wires i’d be checking the rest of the connectors. Is the car showing any trouble codes?
The air filter housing does have a chip in it above the filter. Although I didn’t think much of it given it’s before the MAF. I’ve some automotive clay laying about I could plug it with to test.
I could give it a go dude. Unless the MAF could be over reporting? The trims get increasingly negative with higher engine RPM. I’ll try it without the filter to see what happens.
Thankyou for your reply, the regulator is practically impossible to test without a fuel pressure guage in this vehicle, unfortunately the regulator isn’t driven by a vacuum line either, rather part of the fuel pump assembly. I know disconnecting the line would have been the obvious move if the FPR was driven by vacuum though, have tried blocking EVAP off to see if it was drawing extra fuel in there, no change. Even unplugging various sensors made no difference. I’ve checked MAF resistance as per the workshop manual. It appears to be in spec also. I’ll check out the scope you’ve linked me to. In the mean time I’ll have a look for a good mechanic. I know of an auto electrician but I’m not sure if this is something he would deal with.
Would something like this work with coil on plug?
Unfortunately I don’t have a scope or a fuel pressure guage. The car uses a non return fuel system and the regulator is in the fuel tank. I agree that I should be checking fuel pressure. To me it seemed logical to assume the pressure regulator may be letting the pressure drop back down. I was thinking high fuel pressure could be causing this issue, the new injectors are the exact same part number as the old. If its a pointer the old injectors were slightly lean at idle and rich under load. Bank 1 runs cylinders 1 and 4, bank 2 runs cylinders 2 and 3. Im not entirely sure why theyre running different. What would you recommend I do at this point?
