Need some help 2006 Nissan Altima 2.5s cranking no start

[Countryboy35044]

Where to start I purchased this vehicle with the symptoms of turning the key over 3-5 times and it would start never to off position drove it home being told it needed a new fuel pump. I ordered a fuel pump as I was told this is what was needed by a mechanic, but the information come from the guy I purchased the car from. He said it was loosing pressure why it was hard to start. I replaced the fuel pump hear it coming on still same issue no fuel reset button only over time it developed a complete cranking no start issue. I noticed the wires to the camshaft sensor was twisted together and bare so I fixed this problem appropriately. So I decided to check the plugs and coils one plug was submerged in motor oil, I removed oil completely ordered a new valve cover with gaskets and replaced it along with a tune up new plugs and coil packs. Voltage to coil packs is good, I tried old coil and plug grounded it no spark tried new plug and coil grounded spark and started right away of course on 3 cylinders shut engine down immediately removed old plug I placed in the engine block temporarily and put new plug and coil back on. It took many tries of starting engine and cutting right off on it own by dying till it started and idled fine let it run for 20 mins then shut engine off and back to no start condition. Seeing spark tells me not crank or cam sensor correct? I’m having difficulty figuring this one out

[JMB711]

Did you test the fuel pressure? How about vacuum checking the Fuel pressure regulator?

[Countryboy35044]

I currently have no way to test the fuel pressure, and what do you mean by vaccume where the MAF is the line that runs from the air intake to the engine is damaged but did not think this would cause a no start issue.

Also the port where you test the fuel pressure I removed the cap and there is a valve like a tire valve stem I pressed it with a screw driver no hiss of air, nor did any fuel come out, but the fuel pump is working I hear it pumping and also un clipped the hose at the pump had pressure in the line. Not sure if this is useful information.

[Countryboy35044]

If this may help it is last readings of code reader just purchased it battery was dead so no codes I could not read before now due to reset this was all LD while it was running

Fuel sys 1 (CL)
Fuel sys 2 (NA)
Calc load (28.2%)
ECT (180 degrees F)
STFT B1 (-18.0%)
LTFT B1 (0.0%)
ENG RPM (800)
Veh speed (0 mph)
Spark Adv (12.0 degrees)
IAT (84 deg F)
MAF (0.60 lb/min)
TPS (0.8%)
02S Loc (02S11 and 02S12)
02S B1S1 (0.285 v)
STFT B1S1 (-18.0%)
02S B1S2 (0.300 v)
STFT B1S2 (99.2%)
OBDSup (OBDII)

[Importech]

Hi, Try fixing the line yuo said was broken by the air flow sensor. It sounds like you might have a fuel pressure regulator problem (by not holding fuel pressure). Does that broken line go to the fuel pressure regulator?
Just a thought. That open line could also be affecting your STFT (short term fuel trim) wich is way off.

[Countryboy35044]

As far as I know the fuel pressure regulator is built into the fuel pump which I’ve already replaced so is the fuel filter

[Countryboy35044]

I unhooked the fuel pressure line and hooked a hose to it and when the pump come on I do have fuel this is to the line running to the injectors I also checked the spark and did have spark but still no start condition

[Countryboy35044]

Ok I driove it last night I turned the car over about 10 times it finally started no codes I let it idle about 15 minutes, then I drove it about 3 miles then back home power seemed fine pulled it back into the garage and shut it off same thing but offer turning the engine over many times it does seem to run

[Importech]

Ok, let’s assume that the fuel pressure is ok. Going back to the computer data, two things stand out. The short term fuel trim is way lean at minus 18, meaning the engine computer is leaning out the fuel mixture, and the calculated load seems high at 28 percent. If the engine was cold I would expect to see it at 28% idling, but warm engine should be about half of that. The engine computer is compensating for what it sees as a rich condition, based on sensor data – high load with low air flow. Try cleaning the air flow sensor and fix that broken vacuum hose if you haven’t already. After you do that I would expect it to start hard one more time. After it runs a bit see if it stops and restarts like it should.

[Countryboy35044]

Ok thank you I will try this I will clean the intake and I have already repaired the leak
Yesterday after repair the leak the
Calc load went to 25.1 %
And the STFT B1 went to -15.6 %
A difference but not a lot

[Countryboy35044]

I’m totally lost on this car I have spark no fuel I’ve replaced the crank sensor cam sensor the fuel pump the fuel injectors the harness is good I’ve checked the continuity from the sensors to the computer I’ve even purchased a new computer twice had it flashed and programmed and the car would start and run 3-4 times then something is burning up the computer best I can explain and it’s same senerio all over again the ignition switch has power it’s sending signal even mechanic has given up on this car and at $79 hour I don’t have the money to take it around to others to guess and not fix it the fuel pump does work it feeds to the fuel rails have power to injectors just no pulse when turned over

[Importech]

Try unplugging the front O2 sensor and then see if it starts with the sensor disconnected. Check the wiring for the O2 sensor circuit at the computer. Look for a possible short to power. Signal wire voltage from sensor to computer should be less than one volt.

[KamiWolf93]

Have you tried the key in the on position just before start, for about 10 seconds? It gives the pump a chance to prime. Also I agree on disconnecting the o2 to see if the engine starts easier. It could be an o2 sensor stuck rich, meaning the engine’s actually running lean. If you’ve noticed stripped wires i’d be checking the rest of the connectors. Is the car showing any trouble codes?

[Author]

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